From Andrew Merrick…
After my marathon work was done in 2015, a friend called me around Christmas time and asked me if I would be up for doing a race called Lakes in a Day in Autumn 2016. In a moment of weakness, I said yes – the same thing had happened with my first marathon in 2001, I must remember next time I get one of those Christmas calls…
So that set me on the path that culminated last weekend; after multiple qualifying races and many attempts in the ballot, I finally got a place in UTMB 2020, which was then delayed to this year.
The feel of UTMB is much more like a big city marathon than a more normal ultra, with a full expo in the centre of Chamonix, and a holding pen (large sunny field) where we were asked to assemble about 90 mins before our respective starts (there were three this year – 5, 5:30 and 6pm rather than the traditional 6pm on a Friday evening). As I sat in the field I reflected on the contrast between this and my previous ultra where we had set off as a pair from next to the organiser’s car on a soggy Saltaire street.
UTMB has a reputation for being very strict on kit checks, typically registration requiring all items to be checked. This year, for obvious reasons, there was no formal kit check at that stage but we were told that there would be checks during the race, and in fact some were undertaken in the holding pen. The additional cold weather kit (no open toed shoes (!), a third layer and some sunglasses) had been invoked the day before, and we had a mild panic on the Friday morning when we realised that the sunglasses had to be reactolite style so they were clear at night. This was creatively solved by the acquisition of the lightest, clearest swimming goggles we could find as a further addition to an already bulging pack.
Notwithstanding these covid times, as is traditional, the streets were lined on both sides with cheering well wishers as we headed out of Chamonix and it was nice to finally get going. My ultra friends Rob and Laura were also in the race, with Laura in the 5pm start, myself in the middle and Rob bringing up the rear.
Rather out of character with the rest of the run, the first 5 miles are pleasantly flat, so the challenge is not to get too giddy…… I had a number of people ask me what my race plan was… I had concluded that largely I would work the uphills, be careful/steady on the downs (to avoid any race-ending damage), and refuel sensibly. I was also working on the basis that there were 10 hills, 4 of which (including the longest) being before the halfway point at Courmayeur.
All largely went to plan for the first half, although Morgan Williams was right to warn me about the climb up to and rocky run down from the col des pyramides calcaires, which culminated in a very cold check point in the bottom of the valley, where I hooked up with Rob, after he had overtaken me on the climb up. So I had company on the section up and over into Courmayeur which was largely very pleasant with lovely views, other than the dust bowl of a descent into Courmayeur Sports Centre, and some frustrating minutes spent waiting for my drop bag to be found… After a breakfast of pasta, a change of socks, and the application of a compeed (which stuck very well, despite my dusty and soggy feet, but as I subsequently discovered largely to my sock!), Rob and I were on our way again…
The climb up and out of Courmayeur was very tough – a steep zigzagging trail through the trees which appeared to go on forever, finally ending at the next checkpoint only 5k later at Refuge Bertone. After a refuelling stop there (generally refuelling at this stage was a combination of (largely clear) soup, a coffee and half a banana), I found that my ability to move uphill had deserted me. I shouted to Rob who was already disappearing into the distance that I was pretty convinced my race was over, but he persuaded me to crest the small climb and carry on since it was largely downhill from there to the next CP. I found I was still able to move ok on the flat and not-too-steep downs so we continued on until the Refugio Bonatti, the small climb up to which did for me again. I told Rob that I was going to stop there and encouraged him to carry on with our new trail friend Sidney (“I am trying not to fall over since I had my appendix out four weeks ago”). At this point I was sure there was no way I would be able to finish. I had done four of the ten climbs, with the toughest next and I couldn’t really move uphill. I decided to take a half an hour break in the sunshine on a bench outside the refugio to try to sort myself out… I looked at the UTMB wrist tag, which someone had told me gets cut off if you DNF, I looked at the pink socks I had changed into in support of a good running friend of mine … and I thought about what her approach would be. I decided I needed to find a way to move at my (very slow) uphill pace, and not be deflected by the speed of others. I also consciously put my cap on, so I would focus on the ten yards ahead rather than look further up any hill I was on. After 25 minutes I was back underway, the rest having helped too; I found my way down to the CP at Arnouvaz and after a short refuel I was on the climb up to Grand Col Ferret at just over 2500m. I found a slow person to follow for the first steepest section of the climb and the plan appeared to be working, and eventually I hit the very windy summit before a long but steady descent into La Fouly and the world was a happier place….. I passed Sidney at this point and was reunited with Rob at the CP, although he was then having his own challenges. We agreed I would crack on in daylight on the 9 mile leg to Champex, which I just about managed without a head torch.
The next two legs I had run previously when out in the Alps, but had completely forgotten just how steep they were, so they both were a real slow struggle through our second night. Rob had happily caught me up for the second one, and was very patient as I set the (snail’s) pace up and over before the long descent into Vallorcine. Both this and the previous leg vie for the title of the most contrived route to the checkpoint, with both having a range of difficult-to-run gnarly switchbacks which then still ended some way from the respective CP. But once we were in Vallorcine we had only one leg left most of which would be in daylight again. I had also been more prepared for the second night hallucinations this time and ignored the rocks pretending to be in the shape of Punch (as in Judy) and a battered van, and the runner dancing back towards me…
It was very chilly alongside the river as we set off (after more soup and coffee) for the final climb up to tete aux vents and on to Flegere before the drop down to the finish, but we soon warmed up on the climb, happily not as steep as the path I was expecting nor was there a drop and climb between tete aux vents and Flegere that Rob was expecting. I celebrated slightly prematurely with a glass of coke and a cookie at the final stop at Flegere, this time more successfully than my previous request (in my best French) for a coke with little fizz – on that occasion, I was proudly provided with a coke topped up with a little fizzy water…..
I am sure I reconfirmed with the still very patient Rob multiple times whether we just had to get down to Chamonix from there… After a few more gnarly tree rooty, stoney switch backs which I was not going to run down, we got onto the track down to Chamonix. I think I was rather too tired to completely enjoy the fantastic reception that awaited us, more spectator lined streets, as we finally finished, in my case just under 42 hours later…
A gruelling experience with some epic views and climbs – there were times when I thought 36 hours might be possible, others when I didn’t think I would make it at all – ultimately the challenge was to finish! I don’t plan to do it again, but I am very happy to have done it once!